Making a ceramic colander with perfectly even holes
A handmade ceramic colander brings warmth and character to a kitchen while remaining genuinely useful. Its open form can drain pasta, rinse berries, hold freshly picked herbs, or sit on a bench as a sculptural fruit bowl. The challenge is creating enough drainage without weakening the clay body or producing holes that look accidental.
For Australian home cooks, the finished piece needs to suit generous family meals, compact apartment kitchens and the relaxed ritual of sharing pasta with friends. A colander made in Melbourne, Sydney or Brisbane may be used for everything from rinsing market greens to draining handmade gnocchi after a long lunch.
Even spacing comes from planning rather than guesswork. The clay must be prepared evenly, the form should have consistent wall thickness and the openings need to be cut at the right stage of dryness. A simple template, a steady hand and patience between each stage will make a significant difference.
The process also leaves room for artistic expression. Amelia Johannsen’s work connects botanical shapes, Pacific Northwest landscapes and Mediterranean light, showing how a practical vessel can carry a distinct sense of place. Your own colander might echo Australian banksia, coastal shells, river stones or the rounded shapes of native seed pods.
Choose a practical form and clay body
Begin with a low, rounded bowl that has a broad base and gently rising sides. A form that is too deep can be awkward to wash, while a narrow base may make the colander unstable when filled with hot pasta. A foot ring or three small integrated feet can lift the vessel above a sink or serving bowl and allow water to escape cleanly.
Use a sturdy stoneware clay suitable for functional pottery. Porcelain can create an elegant, refined surface, but its fine structure and greater sensitivity to drying may make it less forgiving for a first colander. Ask your supplier or studio about the clay’s firing range, shrinkage rate and suitability for food-contact ware.
Wedge the clay thoroughly to remove air pockets and create an even texture. Roll a slab around 8 to 10 millimetres thick, or throw the vessel on a wheel with a deliberately strong base. Compress the inside surface with a rib so it is smooth and dense, then allow the form to firm to a soft leather-hard stage before adding openings.
Plan the hole pattern before cutting
Perfectly even holes are easier when the layout is established before the tool touches the clay. Mark a central point on the base, then use concentric rings to arrange the openings. A paper template, compass or removable clay stencil can help you maintain consistent spacing. For a medium-sized colander, holes around 5 to 7 millimetres wide usually offer a useful balance between drainage and strength.
Keep larger gaps away from the rim, foot and any handles. Leave enough clay between openings—at least the diameter of the hole is a sensible starting point—and stagger each ring so the vessel retains a web of support. On the sloping sides, make the holes slightly smaller or more oval if needed, since large openings can distort as the clay dries.
For botanical or linear details around the drainage pattern, a ribbon carving tool can help create controlled channels without tearing the surface. Use a needle tool, leather punch or small hollow punch for the actual holes, and test it on a leftover slab first. The test piece reveals whether the clay is soft enough to cut cleanly.
Cut clean openings without weakening the vessel
Place the colander on a foam pad or soft towel so pressure does not flatten the base. Hold the tool perpendicular to the surface wherever possible. Press, twist and lift in one movement instead of dragging the tool through the clay. Remove scraps from the reverse side with a small trimming tool, then soften sharp edges with a damp fingertip or fine sponge.
Work in small groups and rotate the vessel regularly. This makes it easier to compare each opening with the last one and prevents your wrist from changing angle as you reach across the form. If the clay begins to crack, pause and cover the piece loosely with plastic for several hours. Cutting into clay that is too dry often produces ragged edges and hairline fractures.
Inspect the inside as carefully as the outside. Pasta, rice and vegetable skins can catch on rough burrs, so smooth every opening while the clay is still leather hard. Avoid making holes directly beneath a foot ring or close to a sharp change in the wall angle. Those areas experience extra stress during drying and firing.
Dry and fire it with care
Dry the colander slowly and evenly. Place it on a breathable surface such as plasterboard, timber or a dry cloth, and cover it loosely with plastic. Turn it every day so the base and walls lose moisture at a similar rate. In dry Australian conditions, particularly during a hot Adelaide or Perth summer, rapid evaporation can cause cracks around the openings.
Once bone dry, check for loose crumbs, weak joins and sharp edges. Bisque fire according to the clay manufacturer’s instructions, then inspect the piece again. Small cracks should be treated seriously: a vessel that looks acceptable after bisque may fail during the hotter glaze firing or while holding boiling water.
Choose a food-safe glaze rated for the intended firing temperature. A translucent or lightly coloured glaze can keep the perforations visually open, while a heavy glaze may pool inside the holes and reduce drainage. Keep glaze off the foot ring and avoid coating the very edges of the openings too thickly. If you sell or gift the piece at a local makers’ market, include care information and state whether it is dishwasher and oven safe.
Refine the surface and make it your own
Colour can connect the colander to a particular landscape. Soft eucalyptus green, iron-rich red, sea-glass blue and warm sandstone tones suit Australian interiors while retaining a natural feel. Amelia’s discussion of Pacific Northwest to Barcelona offers a useful example of how different environments can shape a ceramic palette without turning the surface into a literal illustration.
Consider adding a narrow carved band beneath the rim, a few impressed leaf forms or a subtly irregular lip. Keep decoration away from the main drainage field so the vessel remains easy to clean. A restrained surface allows the rhythm of the holes to become the primary pattern.
Good photographs show both craftsmanship and function. Capture the colander empty, filled with colourful vegetables and draining pasta beside a serving bowl. Natural light from a bright Melbourne window or a shaded outdoor table in Fremantle will reveal the glaze without harsh reflections; Viki Sears Photography provides a thoughtful reference for presenting handmade work with clarity.
The studio atmosphere matters as well. Repetitive hole-cutting can become meditative, especially with a carefully chosen playlist, and a career-changing song can remind makers that a small creative decision may lead somewhere unexpected. Keep your tools organised, record the clay and firing details, and photograph the piece before it leaves the studio.
A well-made ceramic colander should feel balanced, drain efficiently and withstand regular handling. Test it first with cool water, then warm water, checking for leaks, wobbling or glaze flaws. Once it has passed inspection, use it for a shared bowl of pasta, a Saturday farmers’ market haul or a relaxed dinner with wine and tapas.
Explore Amelia Johannsen’s available ceramics, follow her process on Instagram and subscribe to the mailing list for new work and studio news. If you are in Barcelona, join a hands-on pottery workshop and experience how a carefully planned object develops from a simple piece of clay into something made to be used.